I’ve just heard that my fellow Rutlander, Michelle Palmer, is to be deported from Dubai instead of being imprisoned for her on-beach shenanigans with fellow Brit Vince Acors. She will no doubt be scapegoated for every drunken flashing of bits ever enacted by a western female for years to come.
I’ve never been to Dubai, and have always suspected that it bears more than a little resemblance to the Mos Eisley Cantina in Star Wars, albeit glitzier and more hypocritical. Over the last few years I’ve been noticing the increasing number of job ads for various editorial positions over there and, during my darker moments, have wondered whether I should just cut and run, with half an eye on the potential for tanning, as well as the tax free salary.
But then I remember my own expat experiences. And my own expat behaviours. And certain western woman travel experiences in certain countries. And I think, no, maybe not.
I wrote about it in Cleaning Up. When I went to work in Turkey, I left my car behind and lo! I could drink as much as I wanted. And I did. My consumption rocketed. En masse we used to take over a local bar, very much male domains over there, and drink cheap beer. The women were tolerated because we were always accompanied by several loud, drunken blokes, and we spent a lot of money. (I mean the expat women of course – our Turkish female colleagues would barely set foot in such a place).
Out in the street, sober or not, I had horrible standoffs with men, who always had to try and grab themselves a piece, and got very ugly if you didn’t want to be groped by them. I wonder what the men in Dubai are like, once you’ve strayed from the gleaming corporate byways.
Going back a few more years, I lived in Paris, and also fell into drinking huge amounts. We used to meet at La Palette, among other places, and get totally honkered. We were usually too drunk for decent sex (see also Turkey), but plenty went on, I think.
I remember some Frenchman declaring, not concerned whether I understood him or not, that ‘Les Anglais ne peuvent s’amuser sans boire.’ (‘The English can’t have a good time without drinking’.) [Actually I really ought to delete the funny forrin bit just there, because English people think you're pretentious if you know any other languages, unless it's Dutch drug slang.] Well, he was right, and here I am.
Anyway, a sober person, what would I do abroad? Join the Hash House Harriers? The Lions? And what would I do at sundown, the drinking hour, as the heavy scent of jasmine rises up around me, and the lights go on? Actually, in Dubai, it would be the heavy scent of traffic fumes, most likely, before I descended into some over-airconditioned champagne bar, and sat there shivering until I was twatted enough not to notice any more.
I think Michelle’s probably better off back home.




adalpine
November 26, 2008
As a journo based in Abu Dhabi, just down the big new motorway from Dubai, I can tell you it’s not that bad. You can certainly get alcohol here and plenty of Emiratis and expats imbibe but with a few exceptions there’s not the culture of excess that exists in any of the western countries (US, Aust, UK, NZ) where I’ve lived. The nicest bit is being on the streets late at night on thurs or fri (the fri-sat equivalent in this muslim country) and having 99.9% of those around you sober, rather than pissed and aggro. It’s not all sweetness and light here and work can be frustrating because there isn’t a western democratic tradition of media openness but it’s refreshing to live in a culture that looks at life from a different angle.
taniaglyde
November 26, 2008
Thanks for your comment. I still can’t believe the Brits haven’t found their way of getting hammered as often as possible. ‘In is the new out’ probably applies more over there? Ironically, as a sober person I’d fit in fine, and as I’m a lot older than I was when I worked in Turkey, probably wouldn’t get the same level of hassle!